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HAIRCOLOR FUNDAMENTALS
#Hairbestie Haircolor Theory
4 Haircolor Categories
#Hairbesties, remember there are 4 types of Professional Haircolor:
The Law of Color
#Hairbesties, haircolor follows the Law of Color, a system of understanding relationships between color.
The Law of Color is something that never changes. #Hairbesties, mastering this will give you the artistic freedom to create brilliant, unique haircolor individualized for every client. The most important concept from the Law of Color that we can apply to haircoloring is that cool tones neutralize warm tones and warm tones neutralize cool tones. It’s easy to identify warm and cool colors if you understand the Law of Color.
PRIMARY COLORS
Independent colors, which cannot be achieved by mixing other colors. These three colors make up all other colors (Blue, Red and Yellow)
| PRIMARY COLOR | TONE |
|---|---|
| Blue | Cold |
| Red | Warm |
| Yellow | Warm |
SECONDARY COLORS
A mix of two Primary Colors in equal proportions creates a Secondary Color.
| SECONDARY COLOR | PRIMARY + PRIMARY | TONE |
|---|---|---|
| Green | Blue + Yellow | Cold |
| Violet | Red + Blue | Cold |
| Orange | Yellow + Red | Warm |
TERTIARY COLORS
A mix of a Primary Color and Secondary Color in equal proportions creates a Tertiary Color.
| TERTIARY COLOR | PRIMARY + SECONDARY | TONE |
|---|---|---|
| Yellow-Green | Yellow + Green | Cold |
| Blue-Green | Blue + Green | Cold |
| Blue-Violet | Blue + Violet | Cold |
| Red-Violet | Red + Violet | Cold |
| Red-Orange | Red + Orange | Warm |
| Yellow-Orange | Yellow + Orange | Warm |
The Color Wheel
#Hairbesties, the Universal Law of Color tells us that every color you can imagine are created by mixing the 3 Primary Colors: Blue, Red, Yellow.
Using the Color Wheel
#Hairbesties, by mixing all primary colors together, you create different variations of brown.
• To enhance or create a new color, work around the Color Wheel
• To neutralize or “cancel out” a color, use its direct opposite on the Color Wheel. This will create a neutral, dark gray or brown color.
A basic rule of haircolor is that cool tones neutralize warms tones and vice versa, warm tones neutralize cool tones. For example, blue neutralizes orange tones. This occurs by combining a primary blue and opposing secondary orange, which is composed of two Primaries (Red + Yellow). In doing so, you are mixing all 3 primaries together – creating your neutral form of dark gray or brown.
P=Primary • S=Secondary • T=Tertiary
The #mydentity Color Wheel
Demi-Permanent
Permanent
The #mydentity Level System
#Hairbesties, the #mydentity Level System denotes the degree of dark to light. Level 1 being the darkest form of brown, which we call black, and Level 10 being the lightest form of brown, which we call Ultra Light Blonde.
1
Black
3
Dark Brown
4
Medium Brown
5
Light Brown
6
Dark Blonde
7
Medium Blonde
8
Blonde
9
Light Blonde
10
Ultra Light Blonde
#mydentity Color & Shade assortment
Formulating with #mydentity
Steps To Formulation
1. Determine your client’s Natural Level using the Natural Ice swatches located in your #mydentity Swatchbook. Compare these swatches against your client’s re-growth & scalp area. Always remember you are looking for the level of the natural hair, not tonality.
#Hairbesties, if you see gray first, your client’s hair is likely more than 50% gray. Follow the formulation instructions located in our Gray Coverage section.
2. Determine your client’s Desired Level. You can select the appropriate color shade using your swatchbook for a reference.
3. Determine your client’s Desired Tone. To formulate for this tone, first, you must determine the Natural Underlying Pigment at the desired level. Use our Natural Underlying Pigment (NUP) Chart as your guideline. The NUP will need to be neutralized to create your client’s desired tone. This is where you use your Color Wheel to determine the correlating #mydentity Color base that will neutralize the NUP.
4. Determine the proper volume of #mydentity Developer after deciding how many levels of lift are required to reach your client’s Desired Level.
Natural Underlying Pigment (NUP)
Natural Underlying Pigment are the undertones exposed anytime natural haircolor is lifted. You may choose to neutralize the NUP by using your Color Wheel.
#Hairbesties, always remember the final result of any haircolor service relies on the combination of the color selected & formulated by you and the contribution of underlying pigment.
Use this chart to help you determine what underlying pigment will be exposed at the level you are coloring to.
#mydentity Developers
#Hairbesties, all Developers were specially formulated with my favorite lavender fragrance. Available in the following range for all your #mydentity haircolor needs:
| DEVELOPER | % | USAGE & LEVELS OF LIFT |
|---|---|---|
| Demi-Permanent 6V | 1,8% | For deposit only |
| Permanent 10V | 3% | Deposit or up to 1 level of lift |
| Permanent 20V | 6% | 1-2 levels of lift |
| Permanent 30V | 9% | Up to 3 levels of lift |
| Permanent 40V | 12% | Up to 4 levels of lift |
| 30V THICC Balayage Activator | 9% | Unique, creamy consistency. Up to 3 levels of lift |
| 40V THICC Balayage Activator | 12% | Unique, creamy consistency Up to 3 levels of lift |
Formulation Chart
A: Level
B: Volume of #mydentity Developer
PL: Pre-lighten to achieve this level of lift & have control over Natural Underlying
#Hairbesties, you can use this level finder as a quick tool when you’re formulating with #mydentity color. It will help you select the correct level of #mydentity color and volume of #mydentity Developer. This chart should not be used if the natural hair has been previously colored on or hair contains more than 50% gray. Refer to our Gray Coverage section for help on formulating for gray hair.
#Hairbesties, remember density, texture and porosity will always affect lifting capabilities and your final color result.
#Hairbestie Tip: If you are going lighter, use caution when lifting natural pigment more than one level. If you want to minimize any warmth, choose a shade from our Natural Ice, Ash or Ash Ash shade families.
Step 1: Find your client’s Natural Level on the left side of the chart.
Step 2: Find your client’s Desired Level on the top of the chart.
Step 3: #Hairbestie, your #mydentity formula is where these two lines meet.
Step 4: Select the Shade Family you would like to use, or tweak your formula to control any brassiness.
Formulating For Gray Coverage
Steps for Formulating for Gray Coverage
1. Determine your client’s Natural Level and Percentage of Gray. The key factor in superior gray coverage is to correctly determine how much gray is in the hair. Examine all areas of the regrowth or scalp area – your formulation will depend on what you observe throughout your client’s regrowth area. If the Natural Level is seen fi rst, your client is less than 50% gray. If gray is seen fi rst, your client is 50% or more gray.
2. Determine the client’s Desired Level.
3. Determine your client’s Desired Tone.
4. Determine the percent of gray to assess how much of the Natural Ice series should be incorporated into the formulation. #Hairbesties, reference our gray coverage chart below.
5. Determine the proper volume Developer. I recommend 20V when hair is more than 75% gray.
#mydentity Gray Guidelines Chart
| % GRAY | NI | FASHION SHADE |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 30% | 25% | 75% |
| 30 - 75% | 50% | 50% |
| 75 - 100% | 75% | 25% |
#Hairbestie Tips for Gray Coverage
1. Lifting 2 or more levels is not recommended when attempting to lighten the Natural Level and cover gray at the same time. A cooler shade would be required if you want to neutralize unwanted underlying pigment. Cooler shades, such as Ash, do not have the ability to fully cover a high percentage of gray hair.
2. For Vibrant Reds & Gray Coverage, use the GG Series in place of the NI Series. See gray coverage chart for Vibrant Reds in the following section.
3. Always start your application in the most resistant gray area.
4. If your client has an area that is vastly different in percentage of gray, consider using two different formulas to achieve an even tonal and level end result.
5. For maximum gray coverage, always process for a full 45 minutes.
Gray Coverage with Vibrant Reds & Coppers
#Hairbesties, when you are formulating for gray coverage and the desired tone is a vibrant #mydentity Red (e.g. RR, MR, CRC) incorporate either the GG, NI or Naked Glow series.
The following charts will help you produce a balanced formula for vibrant reds & coppers while achieving 100% gray coverage.
#mydentity Gray Guidelines for RR or MR Formulas
| % GRAY | NI | VIBRANT RED |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 30% | 25% | 75% |
| 30 - 75% | 50% | 50% |
| 75 - 100% | 75% | 25% |
#mydentity Gray Guidelines for CRC Formulas
| % GRAY | GG or Naked Glow + NI | VIBRANT RED |
|---|---|---|
| Up to 30% | 25% | 75% |
| 30 - 75% | 50% | 50% |
| 75 - 100% | 75% | 25% |
Lightening with #mydentity
#Hairbesties, not sure which bleach to choose? Get to know what I LOVE most about each!
#Hairbesties, if you know anything about me, you know I’ve tried every bleach on the market. This category is so important to me because I use it in almost all of my formulations. That’s why it took over a year of development – because I wanted our bleach not only to perform better, but also protect the hair during the bleaching process.
#Big9 Crème Lightener
#Hairbesties, this is the creamiest! I named it #Big9 because it lifts up to 9 levels in a single application! #ThatBig9Tho
Why you’ll love it!
• Lifts up to 9 levels in a single application
• Versatile formula for precise & global application techniques
• Delivers superior conditioning during the lifting process
• Protective crème base soothes the scalp & reduces sensitivity
• Moisturizing agents for optimal protection during & after the lifting process
• Unique consistency offers fl uid spread-ability
#Magnum8 Powder Lightener
#Hairbesties, this is your ideal solution for fastacting, on- and off-scalp lift, maximum control & superior conditioning.
Why you’ll love it!
• Lifts up to 8 levels in a single application
• Dust-free, violet powder
• Delivers superior conditioning during the lifting process
• Ideal when fast-acting lift is desired
• Unique consistency offers fl uid spread-ability
#Stroke7 Rosè Balayage Lightener
#Hairbesties, now you can seamlessly balayage like me!
Why you’ll love it!
• Lifts up to 7 levels in a single application
• Rosé tinted powder
• ElastiShell Technology allows for a flexible cast with minimal fl aking for an even lift
• Specifi cally formulated 🍑THICC🍑 Balayage Activators for effortless spread-ability for a flawless blend
| #Big9 Crème Lightener | #Magnum8 Powder Lightener | #Stroke7 Rosè Balayage Lightener | |
|---|---|---|---|
| MIXING | 1:1 for global consistency 1:1,5 for precision foil or retouch application | 1:1 – 1:3 for desired consistency | 1:2 – 1:3 for desired consistency |
| APPLICATION | For on- and off-scalp use: • On-scalp – up to 20V • Off-scalp – up to 40V | For on- and off-scalp use: • On-scalp – up to 20V • Off-scalp – up to 40V | For off-scalp use 30V or 40V THICC Balayage Activator |
| PROCESSING TIME | 20-45 minutes No heat required | 20-45 minutes No heat required | 35-45 minutes No heat required |
Pre-Lightening
Pre-Lightening Is Key
So many #Hairbesties ask me “How can we achieve beautiful color tones like Silver Pearl, or Rose Gold?!” My answer is simple, you have to take the right steps in order to achieve these delicate tones and **pre-lightening is KEY**!
#Hairbesties, always remember if the hair is only lifted to yellow, then you will have to lift it lighter. Some hair cannot get light enough, so certain tones may not be attainable for all clients. Be sure you talk with your clients about this and that you are honest with them from the beginning. We don’t want to overpromise an end-result that is simply unattainable.
Formulating with #mydentity
#Hairbesties, proper formulation is the foundation to creating any color. Always remember artifi cial color will not lift artificial color, and that the hair’s density, texture, porosity, elasticity and tenacity will affect the haircolor process.
Read More in FORMULATING SECTION
| Desired Shade Families | Pre-Lightenen To Ideal Level |
|---|---|
| Rose Red Midnight Rose Copper Red Copper | Level 6-7 |
| Dusty Lavender Amber Rose Naked | Level 9-10 |
| Silver Smoke Silver Pearl | Level 9-10 |
| Rose Gold | Level 8-10 |